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Cosmetic Chemicals

Specialty Chemicals Update Program

Published July 2022

This report focuses on the business of manufacturing and marketing chemicals that are used as ingredients in cosmetics and toiletry products. It excludes natural soaps (i.e., sodium or potassium tallowate or coconoate) as well as fillers and binders used in soaps. Ethanol (a large-volume solvent), fragrances, propellants, and dental polishing agents are also excluded.

The driving forces in the worldwide cosmetics industry include

  • The growing consumer preference for natural, mild, and non-animal-based products
  • Corporate and consumer interest in environmentally friendly, sustainably produced ingredients
  • Strong interest in antiaging products, particularly in the developed world
  • Growing demand for beauty products that are tailored to the needs of specific ethnic groups
  • The increased use of personal care products by men
  • The growing role of individual consumers and advocacy groups in discussions of ingredient safety

These issues have accounted for much of the recent new product development work and are likely to determine many of the future changes in the cosmetic chemical industry.

The following pie charts show consumption of cosmetic chemicals by region and type, based on value. July 2022 Cosmetic Chemicals Specialty Chemicals Update Prog


    

At present, North America consumes the largest volume of cosmetic ingredients. By 2023, however, China is expected to become the world’s largest cosmetic chemicals market. Growth rates for North America, Western Europe, and Japan are expected to range from 1% to 2%, while the market in China is expected to grow at an average annual rate of almost 8% during 2018–23.

Approximately 1,000–1,500 chemical entities are recognized as cosmetic chemicals worldwide. This report groups these compounds into the major categories shown above. Products within each functional category often compete with one another, regardless of chemical similarities. The single-use additives category includes antidandruff agents, antiperspirants and deodorants, hair conditioning polymers and silicone fluids, hair setting resins, and sunscreens.

The cosmetic chemicals industry is fragmented; hundreds of producers/suppliers provide the broad array of organic and inorganic chemicals that are the essential ingredients of cosmetics and toiletries. However, 20 or so major multinational companies control a substantial share of the cosmetic chemicals business. In most segments, between two and four companies dominate the market in a given geographical region. In North America and Western Europe, most cosmetic chemicals are sold directly to the cosmetics industry; a much smaller share is sold to distributors and small specialty formulators. In Japan, distributors and specialty formulators play a much larger role. In China, basic cosmetic chemical materials are sold directly from domestic chemical producers to cosmetic manufacturers, while the high-value-added materials are almost all imported from BASF, DSM, and others. The imported materials are all traded by distributors. In the past, cosmetic formulations had been developed by cosmetic owner companies. In recent years, ODM (original design manufacturing) cosmetic formulators have become a booming business in China, providing formulation design and cosmetic manufacturing services for cosmetic owner companies.

The growing need for higher-performance, higher-purity products and data documenting their safety and efficacy has improved the competitive position of the large multinational cosmetic chemical producers. These companies have greater resources available for R&D, technical service, and expensive, time-consuming health and safety tests. They can also use these resources to supply the large multinational cosmetic companies on a worldwide basis, further increasing their position as the leading suppliers to cosmetic companies.

Five major trends will shape the markets of the future:

  • Population growth, resulting in more consumers
  • Higher disposable income in the developing countries, resulting in more money to spend
  • Increasing consumer awareness regarding wellness and health, resulting in more “actives”; more “mild” / “renewable” ingredients will be demanded
  • Further market segregation: ethnic products, male grooming, silver agers, adolescents, resulting in new market opportunities
  • Tightening of legislation concerning the safety of cosmetic chemicals, resulting in rising development costs for formulations as substances under scrutiny need to be replaced

Producers of cosmetic chemicals have already adapted to these trends with increased investment in developing countries, many of which also offer rich sources of natural products that can be used in cosmetics. This trend is bound to continue as local formulators in these growing markets need both cosmetic chemicals that are easily available and assistance in advanced formulation technologies.

Based on per capita spending, it is obvious that volume growth is to be expected in Asia and South America as well as in the Middle East and Africa. In the more mature markets, the volume (units sold) will stagnate, while the price per unit is bound to increase as more functionality is demanded by the consumer. This can be achieved only by the development of more sophisticated cosmetic chemicals and more complex formulations (at a higher price).

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Table of Contents

Section Page Number

Executive summary 11
Summary 12
Introduction 14
Abbreviations 15
Overview of the cosmetics industry 17
World 17
Cosmetic markets 17
Product segmentation 18
Trends 18
North America 20
Market size and growth 20
Major cosmetic companies 20
Industry trends 22
South America 23
Western Europe 26
Market size and growth 26
Market size 26
Market growth 28
Major cosmetic companies 29
Industry trends 30
Central and Eastern Europe 32
Market size and growth 32
Market size 32
Market growth 33
Major cosmetic companies 33
Middle East and Africa 34
Mainland China 34
Market size and growth 34
Major cosmetic companies 36
Industry trends 39
Japan 40
Market size and growth 40
Manufacturing 42
Major cosmetic companies 43
Retail markets 44
India 44
Market size and growth 44
Major cosmetic companies 45
South Korea 46
Market size and growth 46
Major cosmetic companies 47
Taiwan 47
Market size and growth 47
Major cosmetic companies 47
Thailand 48
Market size and growth 48
Major cosmetic companies 48
Other Asia 49
Market size and growth 49
Indonesia 49
Malaysia 49
Philippines 50
Singapore 50
Vietnam 50
Major cosmetics companies 51
Overview of the cosmetic chemicals industry 53
World 53
Structure of the industry 53
Major producers 53
Operating characteristics 54
Research and development 54
Manufacturing 55
Marketing 56
Cost structure 58
Trends and opportunities 59
Critical factors for success 60
North America 61
Structure of the industry 61
Company profiles 65
Ashland Global Holdings Inc. 65
Dow Inc. 66
Government regulations 66
Western Europe 67
Structure of the industry 67
Company profile—BASF SE (Germany) 70
Government regulations 71
Cosmetics directive 72
Labeling 72
Safety 73
Mainland China 73
Industry structure 73
Manufacturing and marketing 74
Company profile—Guangzhou Tinci Material Technology Co., Ltd. 74
Government regulations 75
Japan 76
Industry structure 76
Company profiles 77
ICHIMARU PHARCOS Co., Ltd. 77
Nikko Chemicals Group 77
Government regulations 78
Other labeling requirements 78
Nanomaterial concerns 79
Cosmetic chemical products and functions 80
Emollients and moisturizers 80
Amino acids and polypeptides 81
Esters, fatty acids, and fatty alcohols 81
Hydrocarbons 82
Lanolin and derivatives 82
Polyols 82
Silicones 82
Triglycerides 83
Other 83
Surfactants 83
Primary surfactants 85
Auxiliary surfactants 86
Emulsifiers 86
Refatting agents 86
Substantivity agents 86
Thickening agents 87
Cellulose ethers 87
Natural gums 87
Polyacrylates 88
Silicas and silicates 88
Other thickening agents 88
Colors and pearlescent pigments 89
Carriers 89
Preservatives 90
Single-use additives 92
Antidandruff agents 92
Antiperspirants and deodorants 92
Hair conditioning polymers and silicone fluids 93
Hair setting resins 93
Sunscreens 94
Other actives and cosmeceuticals 95
Cosmetic chemical products in North America 97
Overview 97
Emollients and moisturizers 97
Consumption 97
Market participants 99
Prices 100
Surfactants 101
Consumption 101
Market participants 103
Prices 104
Thickening agents 104
Consumption 104
Market participants 105
Prices 107
Colors and pearlescent pigments 107
Consumption 107
Market participants 108
Prices 108
Carriers 109
Consumption 109
Market participants 109
Prices 110
Preservatives 110
Consumption 110
Market participants 112
Prices 112
Single-use additives 113
Hair conditioning polymers 113
Consumption 113
Market participants 114
Prices 114
Hair setting resins 115
Consumption 115
Market participants 115
Prices 116
Sunscreen chemicals 116
Consumption 116
Market participants 119
Prices 119
Antiperspirants and deodorants 120
Consumption 120
Market participants 121
Prices 121
Antidandruff agents 121
Consumption 121
Market participants 122
Prices 122
Other 122
Consumption 122
Market participants 123
Prices 124
Cosmetic chemical products in Brazil 125
Consumption 125
Market participants 126
Industry trends 126
Cosmetic chemical products in Western Europe 128
Overview 128
Emollients, film formers, and moisturizers 128
Consumption 128
Market participants 131
Prices 132
Surfactants 134
Consumption 134
Market participants 136
Prices 140
Thickening agents 141
Consumption 141
Market participants 142
Prices 145
Colors and pearlescent pigments 145
Consumption 145
Market participants 147
Prices 149
Carriers and powders 150
Consumption 150
Market participants 151
Prices 151
Preservatives 152
Consumption 152
Market participants 153
Prices 155
Single-use additives 156
Hair conditioning polymers 156
Consumption 156
Market participants 157
Prices 159
Hair setting resins 159
Consumption 159
Market participants 161
Prices 162
Sunscreen chemicals 163
Consumption 163
Market participants 166
Prices 168
Antiperspirants and deodorants 168
Consumption 168
Market participants 170
Prices 170
Antidandruff agents 171
Consumption 171
Market participants 171
Prices 172
Other 172
Consumption 172
Market participants 174
Prices 176
Cosmetic chemical products in Central and Eastern Europe 177
Cosmetic chemical products in the Middle East and Africa 178
Cosmetic chemical products in mainland China 179
Emollients/moisturizers 180
Surfactants 187
Thickeners 192
Colors and pearlescent pigments 195
Carriers 197
Consumption 197
Market participants 197
Prices 198
Preservatives 198
Single-use additives 202
Hair conditioning polymers 202
Hair setting resins 203
Sunscreen chemicals 205
Antidandruff agents 208
Cosmetic chemical products in Japan 210
Overview 210
Emollients and moisturizers 210
Consumption and markets 210
Market participants 214
Prices 216
Future trends and strategic issues 218
Surfactants 218
Consumption and markets 218
Anionics 219
Nonionics 220
Cationics 220
Amphoterics 220
Market participants 220
Prices 221
Future trends and strategic issues 222
Thickening agents 222
Consumption and markets 222
Market participants 223
Prices 224
Future trends and strategic issues 225
Colors, carriers, and pigments 225
Consumption and markets 225
Market participants 227
Prices 229
Future trends and strategic issues 230
Preservatives, antioxidants, and chelating agents 230
Consumption and markets 230
Market participants 232
Prices 233
Future trends and strategic issues 233
Single-use additives 233
Hair conditioning polymers 233
Consumption and markets 233
Market participants 234
Prices 235
Future trends and strategic issues 235
Hair setting resins 236
Consumption and markets 236
Market participants 236
Prices 237
Future trends and strategic issues 238
Sunscreen chemicals 238
Consumption and markets 238
Market participants 239
Prices 241
Future trends and strategic issues 241
Antiperspirants and deodorants 242
Consumption and markets 242
Market participants 242
Prices 243
Antidandruff agents 243
Consumption, markets, and market participants 243
Prices 243
Other 243
Consumption and markets 243
Market participants 244
Prices 247
Cosmetic chemical products in Other Asia 248
Consumption and markets 248
India 249
Indonesia 250
Philippines 251
South Korea 252
Taiwan 253
Thailand 254
Vietnam 255
Market participants 256
India 257
South Korea 260
Taiwan 260
Southeast Asia –261
Revisions 264
Data Workbook 265
Notice 266

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